Interior Design and Home Accessories

Interior Design and Home Accessories

From Ordinary to Stunning – Tiffany Glass, Part 1

July 22nd, 2011 Filed under: Glass by arnasati
glass fusing
by jcolman

Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1933, was the originator and designer of the stunning Tiffany Stained Glass Lamps.  His lamps were characteristic of vibrant colors, textures and original designs.  His designs can be categorized into seven basic designs, each with its own distinctive qualities.  However, within each category, Mr. Tiffany used several different methods of making, treating, and designing the glass.  Each Tiffany Lamp is unique, one of a kind, and hand crafted. To truly appreciate each design and each lamp, it is interesting to delve into the various glass making methods that give each Tiffany its own unique and distinctive qualities.

 

The first type of Tiffany Glass to investigate is Opalescent Glass.  This type of glass is very interesting and derives its name from a characteristic that means there is more than one color present within the glass itself.  The two colors are fused together during the manufacturing process where two colors may be laminated or a technique of turning red glass to orange or blue glass to green is done by superficially adding a solution of silver nitrate to silver stained glass.  This type of glass was used during the 1860′s to 1870′s in various England Stained Glass Studios and others.  Opalescent glass became the foundation for all the other glassed designed by Tiffany.

 

The next and most famous type of glass used by Tiffany is Favrile.  He patented the glass in 1880.  Its name comes from the French word, febrile, which means handcrafted.  Favrile is very versatile and you will find it in a lot of Classical art work.  Favrile’s main characteristic is that the glass possesses a superficial iridescence.  It causes the glass to shine and shimmer, but at the same time, the glass retains is opaque qualities.  This shimmering effect of the glass was made by combining two different colors of glass while it was still hot.

 

Mr. Tiffany was quoted, “”Favrile glass is distinguished by brilliant or deeply toned colors, usually iridescent like the wings of certain American butterflies, the necks of pigeons and peacocks, the wing covers of various beetles.”

 

To create different types of textures to the glass Tiffany used several other methods that would give the glass the look and feel of the nature that the designs were patterned after.

 

To make the impressions of waves, water, or veins in leaves Mr. Tiffany used the process known as Ripple Glass.  This process is quite interesting in that the process was done by rolling a roller over hot molten glass.  To make glass smooth the process would require that the roller spin on itself and go forward at the same speed.  In order to give the ripple effect the roller would spin faster than the speed that it was traveling forward.  When the glass cooled the ripples would remain as part of the glass.

 

Another technique that Mr. Tiffany used to give the illusion of branches, sticks, and grasses was called Streamer Glass.  Streamers of hot glass were swung back and forth across using a long steal pipe, know as a punty.  These long, hot, thin strands of glass then harden and become attached to the glass.  They are then pressed into the glass and became permanently fused.

 

When investigating and considering Tiffany Lamps for yourself or as a gift, take the time to truly look at the details of the glass.  Noticing different nuances and characteristics in the glass can be the difference between ordinary or exceptional.  It can also mean the difference between authentic or imitation.  Although original Tiffany Lamps are found in museums or private collections, there are some manufacturers of Tiffany Style Lamps in production today still use hand crafted and hand soldered glass made famous by Mr. Tiffany.

 

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Glass Vocabulary: glassmaking techniques and other vocabulary A to Z ? Part 3

July 21st, 2011 Filed under: Glass by arnasati
glass fusing
by Wendy Tanner

Process of rolling a mass of molten glass, still attached to the blow-pipe, on a hard flat surface to make it uniform. It is also used to embed glass threads, blobs, and motifs into the surface of the object.

Glass in molten or hard state.

: Process of decorating glass with slices of colored canes arranged to resemble flowers by embedding them in a clear glass matrix or fusing them in a mold.

Forming of objects and decoration in low relief by blowing molten glass into a mold.

Developed in 1827. Molten glass is poured into metal molds and pressed with a plunger to form a smooth interior and an exterior impressed with the patterned design in low relief.

Famous glassmaking island of Venice.

Natural form of volcanic glass, usually black.

(French: glass paste) This material is produced by grinding glass into a fine powder, adding a binder to create a paste, and fluxing medium to facilitate melting.

blowing molten glass into a mold with a patterned interior.

A popular Roman decoration of vertical ribs formed by working vessels while soft with pincers and other tools, or by molding.

Iron rod used for handling glass during manufacture.

Blob of glass applied to the surface of an object for decoration and to facilitate holding. Mainly used for drinking vessels.

(Italian: small network) Invented during the early 16th century. Equal lengths of circular-sectioned clear glass rods containing white or colored glass threads are fused and gathered along one edge, then blown to the required shape.

sticks of glass used for filigree or millefiori decorations.

projecting abrasive material by using compressed air to matt or to penetrate the glass surface.

shaping glass by allowing it to sag through its own weight into or over a form during heating in a kiln

thick glass that has usually been cased several times.

Decorative technique of tapping a glass surface gently with a pointed instrument to create design and tonal effects with tiny dots, called stipples.

reheating of glass objects to develop certain colors and/or special effects.

unique work handmade by a single artist-maker, as distinguished from factory-made glassware

Small pieces of glass arranged and cemented into mosaic compositions. Used to decorate interiors and in jewelry.

Decorative application of softened threads of glass to the surface of an object.

Decorative stem used mainly on 18th century English drinking glasses. They have white, colored or air threads, twisted within the metal to create elaborate designs.

also known as wheel-engraving. Decorating the surface of glass by the grinding action of a wheel, using disks of various sizes and materials.

 

(To see the entire list of glass vocabulary, visit the Glass Art Encyclopedia.)

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Ariens Snow Thrower Made With Kevlar Replacement Belt, Part # 72086

July 4th, 2011 Filed under: Garden Tools by arnasati

Ariens Snow Thrower Made With Kevlar Replacement Belt, Part # 72086

  • Made To Meet Or Exceed FSP Specs.
  • Kevlar Belts are stronger than Polyester Belts
  • 3/8″ X39.4″

Fits Model 924082, 8 HP engines. Kevlar® corded lawn and garden belts have become increasingly popular over the last few years due to their extreme strength, durability, and value-added pricing. Kevlar® corded belts, also called Aramid or extra-heavy duty belts are constructed of organic polyaramide fibers that are manufactured using complex chemical processes. **Interesting fact: Kevlar® is the same material bulletproof vests are constructed with. Kevlar® is used in PIX belts as a tension m

List Price: $ 9.95

Price:

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Set of Two, Ariens Snow Thrower Replacement Belts For Part # 72023

July 2nd, 2011 Filed under: Garden Tools by arnasati

Set of Two, Ariens Snow Thrower Replacement Belts For Part # 72023

  • Made To Meet Or Exceed FSP Specs.
  • Price is for a matched set of two belts.
  • 1/4″ X 27.3″

Replaces Ariens Part number 72023 and 07202300

List Price: $ 9.95

Price:

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Ariens Snow Thrower Replacement Belt, Part 72066. Made With Kevlar

June 29th, 2011 Filed under: Garden Tools by arnasati

Ariens Snow Thrower Replacement Belt, Part 72066. Made With Kevlar

  • Made To Meet Or Exceed FSP Specs.
  • 3/8″ X 34
  • Kevlar belts are stronger than belts made with polyester.

Replaces Ariens Part number 72066 and 07206600

List Price: $ 9.95

Price:

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The easy lo-cost way of how to grow your own bedding plants from seed, Part 3

June 1st, 2011 Filed under: Gardening by arnasati

Wait until the secondary leaves appear, these are your plants first true leaves and will show signs of the leaf form expected in the mature plant. The seedlings should also be about half an inch (1.5 – 2 cm) in height or – slightly more depending on the plant type and variety – as this will make them easier to handle plus if replanting too early the seedlings will be weak and could easily get damaged.

Before handling your seedlings you must first prepare something for them to be transplanted into. To save cost you could use the same type of seed trays as before (as I do) but there is available a vast array of other suitable containers such as small plant pots, specially designed cells that you put into your seed trays, and peat pots to name but a few. However it is much more cost effective to use seed trays just as they are and your young plants will grow quite happily this way, there is no advantage whatsoever to using cells or small plant pots.

Fill each of your seed trays or other containers almost to the rim with reasonable quality multi-purpose or seed and cutting (or seed and sowing) compost, firm your compost down lightly and then water it thoroughly. I always find it best to water before replanting my young plants or seedlings as this causes less disturbance to the plant itself, but of course once replanted you will still be required to water your plants occasionally after replanting otherwise they will never grow. Allow your excess water to drain out before planting anything into the tray, pot, or cell so be sure to make certain that whatever container you are replanting your plants into has a hole or holes in the bottom to allow this excess water to drain away freely.

Next we use a process known as ‘pricking out’, this is the act of removing your seedlings from their initial seed tray and replanting into some other container without causing them any damage . To do this the compost in which your seedlings have germinated and began to grow in needs to be moist so water it if required as hard dry compost will make the pricking out process more difficult and is more likely to damage your young seedlings.

A special tool known as a ‘dibber’ can be purchased if you wish, this is effectively no more than a thin tapered stick to prise out your seedlings and make a transplanting hole, and is usually made of wood or plastic. However I find that the sharpened end of a pencil works just as well and of course is much more cost effective.

Make a small but deep hole in the surface of the compost you are going to transplant your seedlings into using your dibber or pencil point. Then insert your dibber or pencil point into the compost alongside the seedling you would like to replant and carefully lift the plant along with the roots using the tool. Make sure that some compost is still attached to the roots of the seedling and then with your other hand hold the seedling by the leaves and carefully lift whilst prising out the roots with the tool. Always handle your seedlings or young plants by the leaves and not the stem. This is to minimise the damage to your young plant as handling it by the stem can cause it to be crushed or snapped and of course will render the plant useless, so if this happens it is best to discard it and try again; whereas damage to the leaves will have no detrimental effect on the plant itself and it will continue to grow as it should.

Immediately transfer your young plant to the compost with the hole in you made earlier and carefully tease the roots using your dibber or pencil point into the hole, try to use your dibber or pencil point rather than your fingers to minimise damage to the roots. Once done lightly firm the surrounding compost around your young plant to close the roots in, remembering to leave the bulk of the stem and leaves above the surface of the compost. Discard any seedlings that appear weak, flimsy or small because the chances are they will not grow properly anyway; there’s no room to go soft over the runt of the litter here, if it’s weak, feeble or too small get rid of it.

Well done! You have just ‘pricked out’ your first seedling. Now do the rest of them.

Space your replanted young plants about 2 inch (5 cm) apart in their trays or use one plant per cell or pot. As a guide a half-sized seed tray will hold 12 young plants (4 long x 3 wide).

Please note that with really small seedlings such as ‘lobelia’ it is much more practical to prick out 2 to 4 seedlings together.

When completed return your pricked out plants to the greenhouse, cold frame or windowsill and allow them to grow on. Water as and when necessary, your compost should always be moist but never soaked. No glass or other cover is required at this stage so put it away for next season.

After a few weeks your young plants will have grown sufficiently enough to ‘harden off’, a process I will cover in another article.

Happy gardening!

 

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The easy lo-cost way to get started growing your own bedding plants from seed, Part 2

May 30th, 2011 Filed under: Gardening by arnasati

How to do it;

Sow your bedding plant seeds during late winter and early spring for best results.

Three-quarters fill your seed tray with compost making sure to break up any lumps. Firm the compost down with the hand or a block of wood, don’t overdo the pressure as the roots of your seedlings will need to grow and cannot do this if the compost is too firm.

Top up again to three-quarters if required and firm again. Be sure to level the surface.

What most gardening and seed growing writings do not tell you is that it is best to water your compost in the seed tray before adding the seeds. This is because the flow of water will disturb your compost and of course your seeds.

Water the compost lightly and allow it to drain so as no puddles of water remain on the surface.

You may need to level the compost again after watering, if this is required then level it before sowing the seeds.

Spread your seeds evenly over the surface of the compost.

If your seeds are very fine and dust-like (such as lobelia) then no more compost will be required. Otherwise spread a thin layer of compost over the seeds making sure that all are covered then firm it down.

Some seeds (such as sweet pea) however are bulky enough to handle individually. If this is so then I always use the sharpened end of a pencil to make a small hole in the surface of the compost, drop the individual seed into the hole and then pinch the compost back together over the seed.

Be sure to label your seed trays so you know what they contain (a used margarine tub cleaned out, cut into strips and then written on with a CD marker pen makes excellent seed tray labels), when done put the seed tray in the greenhouse or cold frame, if you don’t have a greenhouse or cold frame then a cool indoor windowsill offers a good alternative. In a future article I will be guiding you on how to build your own super-effective minimal cost greenhouse of cold frame.

Check the progress of your newly sown seeds daily and water lightly if necessary, ‘moist’ is all that’s required. Try and use water of the same temperature of the seedlings and compost, they hate a cold shower, so try to store the water in the same location. With seeds and young seedlings I find it best to use a light spray to water the trays, hand operated horticultural grade spay canisters are available from most DIY, garden centre and large supermarket outlets for a small price – or alternatively a pre-used household detergent spray bottle works just fine, as long as it is all cleaned and rinsed thoroughly before hand.

If you have any small sheets of glass or sheets of clear solid plastic or Perspex then you should cover your seed trays with this as it will help to retain moisture as the water evaporates – much like the lid of a saucepan on the hob.

After a while – usually a few days but can take a week or two, so be patient – small leaves will begin to appear on the surface.

Congratulations! Your seeds have germinated!

Continue to water sparingly and allow them to grow. The first two leafs to appear are the primary leafs which are not usually the same shape as the adult leafs, these will die and fall of as the secondary leaves grow. The secondary leafs however will show signs of the right leaf shape for the plant you are trying to produce and will continue to grow and sprout more of these as the plant develops.

With the right care after a few weeks when your young seedlings reach a height of about half an inch (1.25 cm) to an inch (2.5 cm) your seedlings will be ready for ‘pricking out’.

Of course this is just the basic standard procedure. Always refer to the information on the seed packet for the best results.

I will be guiding you through the process of ‘pricking out’ in my next article. In the meantime if you would like to reserve your copy of my new budget gardening ebook coming out soon, or to ask advice on the above or any other gardening related topic, then please feel free to email me and I will be glad to help.

 

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Part 2 – reinstalling the cabinet doors

January 3rd, 2011 Filed under: kitchen by arnasati

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Joinery for Kitchen Cabinet Faceframes Part 1

December 25th, 2010 Filed under: kitchen by arnasati


Routing 5/8 ” deep mortises in the ends of the rails for 3 faceframes.(Three passes 3/32”, 3/8 ” and then 5/8”) The 1 x 2 is not wide enough for plate joining biscuits so I am using loose tenons. Am replacing 3 cabinets above the kitchen countertop with homemade cabinets. Fixture is made out of 1′ by 1′ 1/2” thick plywood and 1×2. Used a 1×3 to set the width for the center space at 2 1/2 ”. The 2 outer 1×2 enables the fixture to be clamped to the router table fence. Do not use a router bit larger than 1/4, tried my 3/8 and kicked back too much. Made 2 more for true 2″ stock and 1×3

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Custom Kitchen Cabinets part 2

December 17th, 2010 Filed under: kitchen by arnasati


Custom cabinets, custom kitchen cabinets, kitchen cabinets, how to build cabinets, building cabinets, building a kitchen, how to build a kitchen, how to build cabinet doors?, how to build a door, how to build cabinet drawers, drawers, how to build drawers, drawer box, shop tours, virtual shop tour, assembling doors, assembling a kitchen, installing a kitchen, finishing wood, finishing cabinet doors, kitchen installation, building cupboards, Reynolds Custom Woodworks is a cabinet shop in Winslow Maine that specializes in custom kitchen cabinetry and fine furniture. Check us out on the web at www.CustomCabinetPro.com

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