Interior Design and Home Accessories

10′ Easy – Up Roll – Out Awning

Easy – Up Roll – Out Awning. Retractable shade to cool off your favorite summertime “hot”spot! Here’s the classic summer dilemma: you love hanging out in the fresh air, but sometimes that harsh midday sun can melt your enjoyment of the moment. Well, under this Roll-Out Awning, temps can be as much as 20 degrees cooler. 20 degrees! Imagine taking in everything you love about summer… a refreshing breeze, chirping birds, the smell of freshly cut grass… and doing it in cool, shady comfort. Or im

List Price: $ 329.97

Price:

No Comments »

RTS Home Accents 5997-000001-5100 48-Inch Long x 25-Inch Wide x 25-Inch High Easy Up Patio Awning – Sahara

• Protect your furnishings from sun’s damaging UV rays and keep home cool.
• Add a decorative element to your home.
• Variety of colors.
• Made of material that repels water and dirt.
• Ideal for most windows and doors, including sliders

An easy way to add a decorative element to the exterior of your home. This easy to install awning protects your furnishings from the damaging UV rays, while keeping your house cool. Easy Up Awnings are ideal for most window and doors, including most sliders. 4′ with 1′ 1-Inch drop, 2′ 1-Inch projection, 6-Inch valance, Sahara.

List Price: $ 99.99

Price:

No Comments »

GROWING RED PALM MADE EASY

The red palm is the most attractive of the Palmaceae family and favorite for landscaping and potted decorative plant because of its bright red color that adds it attractiveness.

 A native of Indonesia red palm is actually growing in lowland areas submerged in water bordering tidal rivers. It only shows that they thrives best when the place is abundant with moisture and humidity. 

Red palm grows successfully in acidic soil (pH 5 or less), where it produces an intense bright red color. It has also the clustering habit producing numerous suckers from the base of the plant and developed into a big clump. 

The leaf bases which wrap around the stem are an exotic crimson. The red color extends to the leafstalk that bears the leaflets. 

How to propagate Red Palm 

Propagating red palm needs your skill to do it because it is a delicate plant. Home gardeners usually fails since they don’t know the proper way to separate the suckers from the mother plant. 

However, the most practical way of propagating red palm is by division where the plant is grown in a size 12 pot using a very loose growing soil medium. 

When you see lot of suckers with roots of their own, you have to take them out from the pot and shake off some loose soil that stick to the roots. 

Separate the suckers carefully with sufficient  roots then plant individually in pots with a porous soil. Place the newly potted plants in a cool shaded area and keep them moist. 

After a couple of weeks from the shade when they are already fully well established you can transfer them to a place where they can be exposed to the sun. 

Propagating by Seeds 

Growing seeds is done by collecting seeds from a ten year old growing plants. When the seeds are ripe, pick them from the tree. Don’t wait for them to fall to the ground, but others prefer to let the seeds sprout before collecting the growing seedlings from the ground. 

But if you want to have a more vigorous seedlings, it is advised to sow the seeds in the germinating tray. Seedlings uprooted from the ground may not survive because some roots may be damaged that may affect the growth of seedlings. 

Some experts recommends picking the ripe fruit since fresh seeds are easier to sprout. Palm seeds have short viability period (1 month), so that  they should be sown within that period.

However, their viability can be extended by placing the seed in a refrigerated container. 

To grow the seeds in germinating or pots, prepare the soil medium with a mixture of coco coir dust and sterilized garden soil. 

Don’t bury the seeds too deep, just barely covered. Maintain the moisture content of the soil not to let them dry out. In doing so, the seeds will be delayed in sprouting. 

Fresh seeds that are moderately moist throughout will germinate in less than a month. There are instances, however, when the seeds take much longer time to germinate. 

Seedlings grow very slowly, that within the first  three -year period, they only reach a mere one foot height and the red color will not show up. 

Once the plant has developed a good number of roots, that’s the time the growth becomes faster. 

To make elongation faster, place them in a shady place, and give them ample amount of fertilizer. 

That’s it! 

You have been given the right procedure to propagate Red Palm. 

Follow the steps correctly, and wow! You’ll get the vigorous growing Red Palm tree. 

And yes. You can earn lots of money raising Red Palm. 

Red Palm command a high price. A six inch seedlings cost around – dollars. 

You see, if you have 1000 seedlings, that’s money. And you don’t have to work that hard.

Once they are fully established, your only work is watering them to maintain moisture requirements of the plant. 

Resource box:   

Crisologo Ramasasa is a freelance writer who writes articles on Home Gardening and Internet marketing tips. Subscribe his Free gardening and Internet marketing tips. Visit his site at: www.crisramasasa.com. Get a Free copy of his latest ebook “How To Get Started in Flower Gardening” and “Vegetable Gardening Made Easy”. There are lots of information you can get with this material.

No Comments »

Grow medical marijuana Outdoors, The Easy Way.

If you have seeds, sun, soil and water- then growing medical marijuana should be one of the easiest ventures you’ve set out to accomplish. As of this writing, only California, Oregon, Hawaii, Alaska, Maine, Michigan, Montana, Nevada, New Mexico, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Washington have passed legislation for their qualified patients to cultivate Medical Marijuana. Arizona and Maryland are in a favorable holding pattern.

If you have reviewed your State’s laws and have a green light, let’s proceed. We’ll use an easy State also as our growing state model, California.  The first thing a grower or gardener needs to be aware of is the sunniest spot in the back-yard. Of course you realize that the sun tracks differently in the winter, as opposed to the summer months. Basically, a 10×10 area with a minimum of 5 hours a day is great. If you prefer, you could plant all around in different sunny areas of the yard. Cannabis plants are sun lovers, so don’t worry about too much sun.

Next are seeds, which you’ve been saving up for an occasion like this. But, which strain or type should you plant? In warm weather States like California, it doesn’t matter. In others, you’ll need the skunk, or Indica strain. Some seed banks have a Sativa/Indica mix, but you need to avoid Sativa’s or mixes of them, as they may need to mature past your grow area’s first frost. Obviously, a frost could kill your crop. Skunk plants (Indica), which are short, bushy, and very potent – will come in before Halloween in most places.

In the soil part, once again California is quite easy. Many southern Cali backyards have never been truly cultivated, so they are just waiting to grow wild. The soil is rich, dark, teeming with worms, and has an earthy humus aroma. Worms live in nutrient rich soil, and after you turn the dirt 15-20 times, they’ll take off to another part of the yard. Cannabis loves to be in a soil with ph between 5.5 – 8.5, 6.0 is ideal. If you are an experienced gardener, obtain a soil probe from a nursery for a ph check. If you’ve never grown in the area, don’t worry about fertilizer the first season. If other plants and regular weeds are effortlessly growing, your Medical Marijuana will do even better. Turn and rake the grow area several times during winter and early spring, until the soil is smooth and fine. There should be no large clumps of dirt or rocks.

When you plant, use an eraser end of the pencil as the depth for the hole, then lightly cover your seed with soil. Do this prior to a rain or keep a light mist over the soil until the seeds pop.  If you are familiar with germinating techniques or transplanting, then you are ahead of the game. On average, water about once a week or when the soil feels dried out. It’s better to underwater, than to over water Cannabis. When you do water, make a reservoir around the base of the plant so that you can give it a good soaking. This type of watering will help the roots to follow the water deep into the earth. Light watering on top causes superficial roots. The tap root will be really long if you watered correctly. Don’t even think about fertilizers, unless the plant’s growth seems sluggish, or the leaves start to yellow. If necessary, use a liquid mix or fish emulsion as fertilizer.

Well, that’s it in a nutshell, – seeds, sun, soil, and water. Good-luck,    Joyce.

No Comments »

What actually looks to you like a simple devise which snips through the length of your hair is really a tool which can create masterpieces. The hair scissors are a heavily discounted part of the grooming process, which actually give a new class to your look and can help groom you perfectly.

Hair scissors may just seems like a pair of pointed ends which do the job, but with different sizes and shapes they can radically change the way your hair looks altogether. The great thing about hair scissors is that they can also help change the shape of your face, and the way your features are presented as well.

When you invest in a pair of hair scissors, do not buy what is popular or fancy. The first thing you need to look at it is the size. But a pair of hair scissors which fit neatly into your palm and can be played about with you easily. It is critical that you be able to handle and control your hair scissors with ease, or you will find that they will start to control you. Your fingers should be able to grip the scissors perfectly and also move the scissors around the way you want to effortlessly. This will help you angle them well and also style the hair better.

When you work with sections of the hair, it is important to be able to work the hair right through. The blades of the scissors should be able to reach all the way through the hair. It is also important that the blades are kept in check, since overly long blades could actually cut all the way into the scalp when you are trying to get rid of certain ends.

There is no certain kind of hair scissor which works universally. Each stylist has their own way of working and cutting hair. Your own style and use is what will guide you on the kind of scissors that you should invest in. What you must, instead pay close attention to is to ensure that the scissors are of good quality. Good quality stainless steel scissors will not rust, and also keep healthy. Ensure that you disinfect your hair scissors with every use and sharpen them as and when they need it. Having a pair of well sharpened scissors will help you make clean snips and prevent the hair from breaking through.

For more information visit http://www.theshearsdepot.com/hair-cutting-scissors.html

No Comments »

Mills Brothers Song Bird No Waste Food in Easy Pour & Store Container

• For song birds like Chickadees and Tufted Titmouse or Red Winged Blackbird
• Preferred mix providing high carbohydrates with protein and fat
• Easy to store and pour container for no waste or mess
• Sealed in freshness
• Convenient feeder or tray filling

The preferred mix for song birds like Chickadees, Tufted Titmouse, and Red Winged Blackbird. Contains sunflower chips, cracked corn, peanut pickouts, oat groats and white Proso millet. A good combination of high carbohydrates with protein and fat. Packaged in an easy to pour from storable container. A convenient no mess way to fill feeders and sealed for freshness so there’s no waste.

Price:

[wprebay kw="germinating+seed" num="2" ebcat="-1"] [wprebay kw="germinating+seed" num="3" ebcat="-1"]

No Comments »

Hair plays an important role in grooming the personality of an individual. For a well groomed personality, the hairstyle must also be a perfect one. And for a perfect hair do, you need a perfect pair of hair scissors. For a nice hair do, the pair of hair scissors used must be sharpened well for the perfect cut.

Sharpening the hair scissors is as important as choosing the right pair of scissors for your haircut. A pair of dull scissors won’t work effectively on your hair and the haircut might not be a good one. So, while cutting the hair, get a pair of sharp hair scissors which fits the need of the time.

Sharpening your scissors at home is not an easy task. Extra care is to be taken while sharpening the blades of scissor. One should not use sandpaper or tinfoil for sharpening scissors as it can result into ruined pair of scissors.

The first step involved in sharpening your hair scissors at home is to do it with the help of a screw driver, take off the hinges which joins the scissor blades and take apart the scissor blades.

Secondly, soak a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol. Soak the cotton pad well. And let it absorb the rubbing alcohol.

After soaking the cotton ball into alcohol, rub your scissor blades up to down with alcohol in order to remove the left over of any hair product used. Rub the blades well from up to down. After you are done with rubbing the blades well you must ensure that there is no residue left. Thereafter, you can start with the next step.

The next step is oiling the hinges of the hair scissors. The hinges of the hair scissors, often, acquire rust due to continuous usage of the scissors and hence, get stuck while opening and closing the scissor. To avoid such a situation, the hinges are to be properly oiled so that they do not obstruct during the haircut.

Once you are done with the oiling part of the hinges, the next step is to put back the blades in their position. With the help of a screwdriver, properly arrange the hinges and blades of the scissors.

Above mentioned were some of the easy ways to sharpen your hair scissors at home easily. Try it!

No Comments »

Wait until the secondary leaves appear, these are your plants first true leaves and will show signs of the leaf form expected in the mature plant. The seedlings should also be about half an inch (1.5 – 2 cm) in height or – slightly more depending on the plant type and variety – as this will make them easier to handle plus if replanting too early the seedlings will be weak and could easily get damaged.

Before handling your seedlings you must first prepare something for them to be transplanted into. To save cost you could use the same type of seed trays as before (as I do) but there is available a vast array of other suitable containers such as small plant pots, specially designed cells that you put into your seed trays, and peat pots to name but a few. However it is much more cost effective to use seed trays just as they are and your young plants will grow quite happily this way, there is no advantage whatsoever to using cells or small plant pots.

Fill each of your seed trays or other containers almost to the rim with reasonable quality multi-purpose or seed and cutting (or seed and sowing) compost, firm your compost down lightly and then water it thoroughly. I always find it best to water before replanting my young plants or seedlings as this causes less disturbance to the plant itself, but of course once replanted you will still be required to water your plants occasionally after replanting otherwise they will never grow. Allow your excess water to drain out before planting anything into the tray, pot, or cell so be sure to make certain that whatever container you are replanting your plants into has a hole or holes in the bottom to allow this excess water to drain away freely.

Next we use a process known as ‘pricking out’, this is the act of removing your seedlings from their initial seed tray and replanting into some other container without causing them any damage . To do this the compost in which your seedlings have germinated and began to grow in needs to be moist so water it if required as hard dry compost will make the pricking out process more difficult and is more likely to damage your young seedlings.

A special tool known as a ‘dibber’ can be purchased if you wish, this is effectively no more than a thin tapered stick to prise out your seedlings and make a transplanting hole, and is usually made of wood or plastic. However I find that the sharpened end of a pencil works just as well and of course is much more cost effective.

Make a small but deep hole in the surface of the compost you are going to transplant your seedlings into using your dibber or pencil point. Then insert your dibber or pencil point into the compost alongside the seedling you would like to replant and carefully lift the plant along with the roots using the tool. Make sure that some compost is still attached to the roots of the seedling and then with your other hand hold the seedling by the leaves and carefully lift whilst prising out the roots with the tool. Always handle your seedlings or young plants by the leaves and not the stem. This is to minimise the damage to your young plant as handling it by the stem can cause it to be crushed or snapped and of course will render the plant useless, so if this happens it is best to discard it and try again; whereas damage to the leaves will have no detrimental effect on the plant itself and it will continue to grow as it should.

Immediately transfer your young plant to the compost with the hole in you made earlier and carefully tease the roots using your dibber or pencil point into the hole, try to use your dibber or pencil point rather than your fingers to minimise damage to the roots. Once done lightly firm the surrounding compost around your young plant to close the roots in, remembering to leave the bulk of the stem and leaves above the surface of the compost. Discard any seedlings that appear weak, flimsy or small because the chances are they will not grow properly anyway; there’s no room to go soft over the runt of the litter here, if it’s weak, feeble or too small get rid of it.

Well done! You have just ‘pricked out’ your first seedling. Now do the rest of them.

Space your replanted young plants about 2 inch (5 cm) apart in their trays or use one plant per cell or pot. As a guide a half-sized seed tray will hold 12 young plants (4 long x 3 wide).

Please note that with really small seedlings such as ‘lobelia’ it is much more practical to prick out 2 to 4 seedlings together.

When completed return your pricked out plants to the greenhouse, cold frame or windowsill and allow them to grow on. Water as and when necessary, your compost should always be moist but never soaked. No glass or other cover is required at this stage so put it away for next season.

After a few weeks your young plants will have grown sufficiently enough to ‘harden off’, a process I will cover in another article.

Happy gardening!

No Comments »

How to do it;

Sow your bedding plant seeds during late winter and early spring for best results.

Three-quarters fill your seed tray with compost making sure to break up any lumps. Firm the compost down with the hand or a block of wood, don’t overdo the pressure as the roots of your seedlings will need to grow and cannot do this if the compost is too firm.

Top up again to three-quarters if required and firm again. Be sure to level the surface.

What most gardening and seed growing writings do not tell you is that it is best to water your compost in the seed tray before adding the seeds. This is because the flow of water will disturb your compost and of course your seeds.

Water the compost lightly and allow it to drain so as no puddles of water remain on the surface.

You may need to level the compost again after watering, if this is required then level it before sowing the seeds.

Spread your seeds evenly over the surface of the compost.

If your seeds are very fine and dust-like (such as lobelia) then no more compost will be required. Otherwise spread a thin layer of compost over the seeds making sure that all are covered then firm it down.

Some seeds (such as sweet pea) however are bulky enough to handle individually. If this is so then I always use the sharpened end of a pencil to make a small hole in the surface of the compost, drop the individual seed into the hole and then pinch the compost back together over the seed.

Be sure to label your seed trays so you know what they contain (a used margarine tub cleaned out, cut into strips and then written on with a CD marker pen makes excellent seed tray labels), when done put the seed tray in the greenhouse or cold frame, if you don’t have a greenhouse or cold frame then a cool indoor windowsill offers a good alternative. In a future article I will be guiding you on how to build your own super-effective minimal cost greenhouse of cold frame.

Check the progress of your newly sown seeds daily and water lightly if necessary, ‘moist’ is all that’s required. Try and use water of the same temperature of the seedlings and compost, they hate a cold shower, so try to store the water in the same location. With seeds and young seedlings I find it best to use a light spray to water the trays, hand operated horticultural grade spay canisters are available from most DIY, garden centre and large supermarket outlets for a small price – or alternatively a pre-used household detergent spray bottle works just fine, as long as it is all cleaned and rinsed thoroughly before hand.

If you have any small sheets of glass or sheets of clear solid plastic or Perspex then you should cover your seed trays with this as it will help to retain moisture as the water evaporates – much like the lid of a saucepan on the hob.

After a while – usually a few days but can take a week or two, so be patient – small leaves will begin to appear on the surface.

Congratulations! Your seeds have germinated!

Continue to water sparingly and allow them to grow. The first two leafs to appear are the primary leafs which are not usually the same shape as the adult leafs, these will die and fall of as the secondary leaves grow. The secondary leafs however will show signs of the right leaf shape for the plant you are trying to produce and will continue to grow and sprout more of these as the plant develops.

With the right care after a few weeks when your young seedlings reach a height of about half an inch (1.25 cm) to an inch (2.5 cm) your seedlings will be ready for ‘pricking out’.

Of course this is just the basic standard procedure. Always refer to the information on the seed packet for the best results.

I will be guiding you through the process of ‘pricking out’ in my next article. In the meantime if you would like to reserve your copy of my new budget gardening ebook coming out soon, or to ask advice on the above or any other gardening related topic, then please feel free to email me and I will be glad to help.

No Comments »

For sharpening the individual teeth of a blade of the chainsaw, you need the electric chainsaw sharpener. The chainsaw sharpener will be adjusted to suit the exact angle, peak and depth needed for sharpening the chainsaw blade perfectly. An electric chainsaw sharpener may be simply utilized by anyone. It has easy operational strategies and the chainsaw sharpener will sharpen the teeth of the blade very precisely with ease and never provide you with any bother whereas handling the electric chainsaw sharpener. To make use of the electric chainsaw sharpener correctly and effectively, you may observe these steps:
? Observe the specifications of the chainsaw blade that you might want to sharpen. You can get the information about the blade type the information sheet that comes with the blade and likewise on the container which had the blade, when you purchased it for the primary time.
? Mount the electric chainsaw sharpener on a powerful and steady table or stand. This can make it easy to function and even the blade will likely be simply put in and taken out from the sharpener.
? Based on the specs of the blade, you have to put in the stone of the right dimension that will be capable of sharpen the chain correctly. Some of the electric chainsaw sharpener fashions come with blades of various width to swimsuit totally different sizes of blade.
? Earlier than starting to sharpen the blade, you need to position the blade within the correct swivel angle. The swivel angle varies from 0 degree to eighty diploma and 60 diploma is most commonly used angle for sharpening the blade.
? Subsequent it’s essential repair the angle for the tooth of the blade. This can even be carried out by considering the specs of the blade.
? Then decrease the grinding wheel within the tooth of the blade to fix the backstop of the blade tooth.
? Before lastly beginning the electric chainsaw sharpener, alter the grinding head’s depth stop to suit the tooth. After which start sharpening
Earle L. Kottler

No Comments »